Shouts and Cherries in the Golan

We travelled up Jericho Road and through the Jordan Valley to Majdal Shams, a Syrian-Druze community in the Occupied Syrian Golan. Beginning with a presentation from Al-Marsad, a local human rights organization, we learned about the history of the Golan Heights, human rights abuses in the region, family separation across the fence separating the Golan from rest of Syria, attempts at forced assimilation into Israeli society, Syrian identity under occupation, efforts to protest IDF military service, water access, and solidarity efforts with Palestine.

We learned about a portion of the fence known as the “Shouting Hill,” or the “Valley of Tears” where separated families would meet and communicate via megaphone.

This image was vivid in my head as we hiked along the border fence, passing grapevines, pomegranate and quinces trees, and in-season cherries that were graciously offered to us by local farmers.

The stories of separated families and their attempted communication across borders is becoming hauntingly repetitious.

We ended the hike with a visit to an outdoor bar and gallery, hidden among farms with the border in the background, before heading to our homestay for a home cooked meal.

Leaving the next morning, we passed a small mock village where the Israeli Defense Forces practice invading Palestinian towns/villages. The US military has travelled here to practice invading Iraq, another of many examples we’ve seen of the relationship between the US military and Israel.